Fall gives us a “mixed bag” of gardening tasks. Some have asked about gathering materials from the landscape to form into wreaths for the upcoming season. A question has been asked on how to winter over a bougainvillea that has been brought from a warmer climate. It still is not too late to plant garlic, but there are a few questions on where to purchase certain garlic and how to give future care for large cloves next season. Still the presence of the invasive Japanese knotweed is troublesome for another home gardener.

In this week’s GardenWise I will offer advice.

“I have found wild grapevines growing in my fields. I noticed grapes on the vines. Are they edible? Also, I cut the vines to make into wreaths. Someone told me that they have to be formed right after cutting, rather than waiting until they dry. Do you know if this is true? Also, I brought a bougainvillea back from California, which spent the summer outside. Any helpful hints on how to keep it happy in the house this winter? I love your column!” M.L., Hamburg (NY) area.

Wild grapes (Vitis riparia) are edible for both people and wildlife. This vine climbs high into trees with tendrils that usually wind around twigs. The fruit is a cluster of round, juicy, very sour, dark blue berries that usually ripen in September and October. This fruit is often used to make juice and jelly. Do not confuse wild grapes with Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), which looks similar, but is inedible. Boston ivy is nearly always found in a developed landscape and clings to brick walls. Wild grapes, on the other hand, are nearly always found in the wild, climbing trees.

It is definitely better to construct wreaths from freshly gathered wild grape vines. Vines are very pliable and easy to form or intertwine. Trim any remaining leaves, but leave the tendrils for greater interest. Allow the wreath to dry in a well-ventilated area. After the drying process, spray with paint or leave natural. Decorate with ornaments and ribbons of your choice.

The bougainvillea is difficult to care for under normal room conditions. You need to place it on your windowsill that has the most sunshine. Best results are to keep it cool throughout the winter. Reduce water, give it no fertilizer and prune it back. When spring arrives and the days are longer, increase the watering and heat to stimulate growth and blooming. Consider re-potting in the spring if needed.

If your bougainvillea is a patio plant in a large container, you may want to use an alternative over wintering method. Place this pruned woody plant in a cool location that does not freeze and allow it to go dormant for the winter. It will look “unhappy” with its leaves dropping. As a woody ornamental, however, it will initiate new leaves and growth when the warmer spring days arrive. Keep the roots moist but do not over-water the plant.

“I found your article on ‘Garlic’ very interesting and will use this information in an attempt to grow garlic myself. Should I ‘pinch’ off any flower or stop the leaf growth? I was told that if you stunt the growth, the bulbs would be bigger. You mentioned ‘no bulbs from the supermarket.’ How about bulbs grown locally? Where can I get ‘elephant’ garlic? Thank you.” D.D., Boston, NY

I am glad to hear of your interest in growing garlic. Fall planting is definitely the best time for larger heads of cloves. Next summer you will see flower stalks forming. These should be cut back so that the plant’s energies can be sent toward the bulb (clove) formation. Usually by midsummer the bulbs will begin to mature. Generally, the leaves become yellow and dried. If the tops are green and “still going strong,” they should be bent over to encourage yellowing. When leaves have dried, gently lift the heads of garlic and dry in a shaded place. Linda and I braid the tops together (sometimes with a hemp twine) and hang in a well-ventilated place.

Supermarket garlic cloves have sometimes been treated so that they will not sprout. Some of these varieties are brought in from other areas of the country and would not be good for growing in Western New York. Locally grown garlic that has not been treated should be fine for your planting.

Elephant garlic should be available from larger seed and plant companies such as Gurney’s, Burpee’s, Territorial Seed Company or many other smaller companies. Since we are getting close to the end of the planting season, supplies may be low.

Note: The following question from T.H. was abbreviated from a six page letter. I hope I’ve summarized it correctly.

We are being “invaded” by Japanese knotweed. I have two fact sheets from “reputable” sources. Both suggest that the rhizomes (root systems) are the major way it spreads. They also say that flowers are insect pollinated and spread by the wind. I try to keep it cut and I try to plant buckwheat as a cover crop. What, if anything, should I do differently? Is this the best way? Is Japanese knotweed a NYS environmental problem? Thank you. T.H., Springville, NY

The Japanese knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum) is a classic example of an imported plant “taking over” in our area. This plant was introduced to the US as an erosion control. It is a perennial (lives multiple seasons) and has underground stems called rhizomes, modified underground stems. While it may reproduce by seeds, the most prevalent form of propagation is by its rhizomes.

Keeping it cut back is one possible way of discouraging its growth. By cutting off the leaf systems, you are cutting the food supply to the roots. This will be very tedious. You will have to cut back at least three times during the growing season. Because it is so persistent, you will probably have to vigilantly perform this task for several years. All pieces of stem should be removed from the site as Japanese knotweed may reproduce from the “cuttings” laying on moist soil!

Hand digging has not proven successful. Some rhizomes are as long as 65 feet and may reach a depth of 10 feet. Any rhizome piece quickly grows into a new plant.

Cornell has reported that after cutting back the foliage, then applying a glyphosate-based herbicide, there is much greater effectiveness in eradicating. Glyphosate products include Round Up, Touch Down, Rodeo and others. The best time to apply the herbicide is in late summer through early fall when the root systems are drawing energies for the winter. This herbicide eradicates all plants and kills all plant parts.

Planting buckwheat as a cover crop to discourage Japanese knotweed would be ineffective.

Japanese knotweed is listed on the Web site (www.nyis.info) for New York Invasive Species Information (The New York Invasive Species Clearinghouse) in cooperation with Cornell Cooperative Extension.

In order to control Japanese knotweed you must be persistent, perhaps even “borderline” obsessed, in its removal. You will probably have to combine many eradication methods and be vigilant.

Feel free to direct your gardening questions to me via the Springville Journal.

Leo Lubke is a Master Gardener and a member of the Garden Writers of America Association.



SEASONAL GARDENING TIP: Clean your birdfeeders now in preparation for the cold weather on the horizon. Wash feeders with hot, soapy water and soak and rinse with a solution of one part household bleach to nine parts of water. Plan to clean feeders twice a month during the winter.